Cochabamba
The City of Eternal Spring
View from San Pedro Hill, September 2023.
Some places welcome you like a grandmother, feeding you as if there's no tomorrow. I can't imagine my childhood without rolling back home with both my stomach and soul full.
Others are grave and cold, reminiscent of the gaze of a love now vanished, ignored, and distant.
Cochabamba feels like falling into the arms of a big nurturing mother. It radiates warmth and joy, resembling a child’s playground adorned with an endless variety of fruits.
14 de Septiembre square (main square), September 2023.
A green paradise, nestled at the feet of several valleys—Cochabamba acts as a vase, where Pachamama (Mother Earth) has poured all her goodness.
And then, mangoes – few things in life matter more than the pleasure of having a good mango. There's such an abundance that I've wondered if mangoes should be the real currency of Bolivia. This way, the country would be richer than it is already.
Let me share something incredible: 10 Bolivianos ( approx. 1.5 USD) can get you a big pile of this orange treasure.
Pachamama’s gifts
Cocha lies flat and securely surrounded by mountains, referred to as apus. In Quechua, this word holds a dual meaning—the first signifying mountain, and the second, god. It's also a tradition in the folk culture of the Andes to associate the mountains with the terms Grandfather and Protector.
The city’s flatness is only interrupted by a proud hill baptized as ‘San Pedro’, as if one of the apus felt younger and decided to infiltrate Cocha’s colourful party, yet never forgetting its protective duty. As a sign of respect and gratefulness, people crowned it with a massive Christ statue, ‘El Cristo de la Concordia’, the second-largest of its kind in the world.
Some have commented on my work pointing out that I capture good shots because I'm always on the move. I partially agree; the itinerant quality of my lifestyle does give a certain appeal to my work. However, at times, I find myself wishing for more time to delve deeper into places, to truly immerse myself and extract the most from what a location has to offer. Some places take longer to unveil themselves, reluctant to confess their secrets.
I'll dive more into this in a future blog post.
I deeply regret having only three days in Cocha. It's criminal that nobody shared the greatness of this place with me beforehand, and I had already made reservations in Puno and La Paz. With limited time, I focused on just three places: the Christ statue, the central square, and the market area. On the first day, I moved between the central square and the markets, concentrating on witnessing the way light caressed people, ground, and columns.
Main Square
The Christ Monument
Market Area
Cochabamba possesses a unique authenticity, a rare vibe that few cities around the world can match. It's a place that exudes brightness and fragrance. I was surprised that, despite being embraced by mountains, the evening light gracefully extends its full length. The apus, seemingly acknowledging this city’s enchantment, thoughtfully placed their massive bodies to allow the sun to filter through warmly and uninterrupted.
Some more shots
Jorge Cafrune, a beloved folklore musician from Argentina, eloquently expressed his profound connection to Cocha's charm and Valle's beauty. In his song "Oh Cochabamba," he shares his strong bond with this land, a lasting commitment, and the promise of a return. It's a sincere, simple, and genuine celebration of Cochabamba's unique magic. Like him, I hope to return soon and get lost in its colourful streets.
Oh, Cochabamba querida,
ciudad de mágico encanto,
te doy entera mi vida,
y en este mi humilde canto…
Oh, beloved Cochabamba,
city of magical charm,
I give you my entire life,
and in this my humble song…
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Additionally, I'll be hosting four street photography workshops in April in Istanbul.
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